Beacon Outshines the Competition
Chef David Chiddo, who's other restaurants are Cicada and TY Harbor, has always done a good job of putting together a very favorable price versus dining experience ratio, and Beacon is no exception.

In Beacon's case, I can't help but imagine that the goal was to beat the (overly popular) Oak Door at the Grand Hyatt at its own game. To my eye there are striking similarities between the two places, both aesthetically and gastronomically. Beacon and the OD both feature absolutley top quality beef and other meats that are mostly simply prepared so that the flavor and quality of the raw materials can shine. Both places feature unique and well matched wine lists and a warm, modern room with plenty of space that is suited for dates as well as business related dinners.

In each of these areas Beacon trumps the old Oak Door. In three visits the quality of the food has always been top notch. When the kitchen strays from "grill it over a flame", it is done with consistent (if not wildy creative) success, with well balanced flavors and textures. Beacon's wine list is thoughtfully prepared, and is comprised mostly of those new world styles that match well with the bold, fresh new worldish flavors from the menu.

And as for the price-to-dining experience ratio that I refered to earlier, Beacon blows the Oak Door right of its hinges. The overall food and ambiance at Beacon [is] superior in many respects and never second. But the tab will likely be 40 to 60% lower, depending on the wine selection.

Several starters are worth mentioning. The mussels are big, juicy and perfectly prepared in a white wine, cream and fennel broth. The crab cake and crab louie are both well constructed. The soups are consistently delicious.

Salads are frankly mundane, but are fresh and good value in a city where shareable sized salads are becoming more rare.

Regarding mains, the red meat dishes tend to be simply grilled, and again the quality of meat allows this approach to be very successful. Fish dishes are more involved, but equally successful. My favorite here is the wild snapper.

Beacon's desserts are also high calibre, and frankly surprisingly so as I have always considered this course to be the weakest at Cicada and TY Harbor. Try the excellent stickey toffee pudding or the butterscotch creme brulee.    [31 Aug 2006 04:57:41]

Food:    Service:    Ambiance:    Overall: 

     ­KCU